In Review: The Early Days of the Rider - The Real McCoy's 1930s Aviator
There's a saying about owning a great leather jacket that goes something like this: the day you first receive it is the worst it will ever look.
There are few things in style that hold such enduring promise. As time goes by, a good leather jacket will mold to the body and develop a patina unique to the wearer. With quality materials, solid construction, and decent care, it can also last a lifetime or two. That's evidenced today by the number of vintage leather jackets on the market from the 1950s (and earlier) that still look incredible. And like any well-loved garment that stays with you for years, a leather jacket can be incredibly personal.
I've been spending a lot of time researching vintage and reproduction motorcycle jackets to complement my Schott Hand Oiled Perfecto, in particular looking for a cafe racer or D-pocket double rider in black horsehide. I finally found one for a great price on the other side of the world - a Real McCoy's x Harley-Davidson 1930s aviator-style D-pocket horsehide motorcycle jacket, which I had shipped from Tokyo a few weeks ago.
Full disclosure: some hardcore clothing nerdery is about to happen, so if you're looking for a short piece about getting the look at Zara, this is the exact wrong place to be.
Japanese company The Real McCoy's is considered by many to be the foremost Americana reproduction company in the world. Of their many products, they're probably most well-known for their A-2 flight jackets and Buco line of motorcycle jackets, which currently retail at around $2000 USD (!). What most people don't know is that The Real McCoy's worked with Harley-Davidson in the 1990s producing a line of jackets based on archival HD designs. This was prior to a shakeup in ownership at Real McCoy's in 2001-2002 and the subsequent splintering of the original company, commonly referred to in Japan as the "Old" Real McCoy's, into several separate companies including Toys McCoy, Real McCoy's New Zealand/The Few, Rainbow Country, and The Real McCoy's of today. It's hard to follow exactly what happened to the Old Real McCoy's, but there seems to be some combination of fraud involved and/or the squandering of vast amounts of money (including rumors that the owner had bought himself a B-17 bomber). What's clear is that the old company went bankrupt, prompting a takeover by Japan's NYLON company and reestablishing itself as the present or "New" Real McCoy's. I've read several comments from longtime customers who preferred the quality and vision of the Old Real McCoy's to the new, but both are highly regarded.
There were also two periods of RM x HD jacket production during the 1990s, as pictured above. The first focused on the more colorful jackets of the 1960-70s and used a rectangular white label. The second utilized a black label and referenced older models like the Cycle Champ, HD's most famous motorcycle jacket, and others which may not have been historically part of the Harley archives. Rin Tanaka actually wrote an entire book on Harley-Davidson clothing entitled "Harley-Davidson Book of Fashions," which covers HD attire from 1910-1950, but I just couldn't justify buying a copy solely to satisfy this one curiosity (yet). In any regard, we know that Real McCoy's produced their own take on Buco's legendary J-24 D-pocket model and this Trojan style under the Harley moniker likely during the latter parts of the 1990s, which dates this jacket back approximately 20 years.
As the Type III "Trucker" rules the world of denim jackets, the Schott Perfecto stands apart as the classic archetype of the motorcycle jacket universe. But there's an entire century of design to explore if you care to take a step outside the box. In the period preceding what is now called the "Golden Age" of motorcycle jackets in the 1945-1950s (basically what we consider classic motorcycle jacket designs to be) was the "Sport Jacket Era" of 1930-1945, where jackets shared a similar double rider silhouette as those that would follow, but still borrowed heavily from jackets originally meant for pilots. These jackets are categorized today as "aviators." My RM x HD jacket features a particular D-pocket design originally attributed to Trojan, but otherwise parallels many aviator jackets of the 1930s, as you can see below. Garments of this period are differentiated from their Golden Age descendants by some common trends (as summarized from Rin Tanaka's Motorcycle Jackets: A Century of Leather Design):
Evolution is the key concept here. Sport Jacket Era and Golden Age designs aren't all that different from each other, and it's not hard to imagine that details ebbed and flowed over the years to gradually solidify into patterns that would define their respective eras.
The D-pocket is a special feature found on many motorcycle jackets. There's been some debate about the origins of the design, one theory a rather romantic notion that it was used to hold a pistol, and in the overlying pocket an extra clip. However, most authorities seem to agree that it was more likely borrowed from its aviation roots as a map pocket or something to stash your gloves and small accessories in. Regardless of its original utility, the D-pocket was here to stay and eventually became associated with biker jackets primarily.
This jacket incorporates a hidden snap-down "W" collar with a slightly wider profile, buttoning cuffs, single front slash pocket, D-ring side adjusters, and my other favorite part of the jacket - a gorgeous showcase half belt-back and inverted center pleat. Looking through thousands of motorcycle jackets online, they can all start to blend together, but the back of this jacket was the first thing that stopped me in my tracks - a little art deco aesthetic on a beautiful leather canvas.
Under the arms you'll also find a small panel for movement with ventilated eyelets, similar in practice to the "underarm footballs" found on most Perfecto models. The inside of the jacket is fully lined in a light plaid wool typical of the era and the sleeves are lined in black nylon. The patterned brass Conmar main zipper with leather pull and brass Talon D-pocket zipper with its diamond chain pull are also fantastic in detail and fit the vintage aesthetic nicely.
Talking about materials means talking about the heart and soul of a motorcycle jacket - the leather. Horsehide was one of the most popular leathers used in the early-mid 1900s due to its widespread availability and some intrinsic qualities which make it ideal for riding wear. To paraphrase a Horween article and some other sources comparing horse to steerhide/cowhide, and calfskin, horsehide is generally more abrasion and water resistant and is also thinner/lighter with a smoother hand. Horsehide also has a reputation for initially being very stiff, notorious for often requiring a substantial break in period that can span years. You might notice I didn't mention lambskin - reason being that lambskin is exceptionally soft and supple but also exceptionally fragile compared to the other hides above. That's not to say it's worse, it's just different, being more of a luxury feel product rather than a practical one in regard to durability.
Front quarter horsehide (FQHH aka horsefront) is particularly suitable for motorcycle jackets. New Real McCoy's Buco jackets are now made with horsehide sourced from Japan's tannery Shinki-Hikaku, which might be aptly described as the "Horween of the East." Shinki front quarter horsehide is a semi-aniline vegetable tanned full grain leather - semi-aniline describing leather finished with a protective surface coat, which gives it a slight shine. I usually prefer full aniline leather for aesthetic reasons (which counter intuitively is left "naked" on the surface), but both can be attractive depending on what you're looking for.
The Old Real McCoy's jackets were made in New Zealand by Real McCoy's NZ aka The Few, including this model, and exported to Japan for sale, so I can't say for sure where the leather was sourced, though my best guess would be Italy (maybe Badalassi tannery) based on some of the other jackets put out by the Few in later years. What I can say is that it's gorgeous and in remarkable condition, with a tight and uniform grain and a smooth hand. It creaks when flexed like an old wood floor in an oddly satisfying way. Some horsehide can feel like dry cardboard or plasticky, but that isn't the case here. It's much softer than I expected. That's not to say it's as soft as lambskin. You won't read the words "buttery" to describe any horsehide in the world, but it's not supposed to be.
Different leatherworkers employ a range of weights for their leather stock. Lost Worlds, for example, is famous for using ultra heavy horsehide. That's neither inherently good or bad. Again, it all depends on what you're looking for. This Real McCoy's hide is more of a medium weight, suiting it well for three season wear while still feeling substantial.
The surface of the leather is over-dyed black over a brown core, commonly known as "tea core." As a jacket made from tea core leather ages, the black slowly wears away to expose the lighter brown underneath (as you can see demonstrated in the jacket below). For vintage jackets this process can take decades. In some modern reproductions it's accelerated purposefully as a shortcut to a quick patina (such as the Liberty Horsehide used by Bill Kelso). But over the ~20 years of my "new" jacket's life it has either been worn very rarely and lightly or finished in a more robust manner, as there's almost no tea core exposed and very little creasing on the sleeves and body. If you look very closely, though, you can see hints of brown peeking through on the sleeve cuffs and the back of the collar - sites that naturally experience the most friction.
I know a skilled leatherworker in England who's making some products for a retailer in Japan. To quote him, the Japanese market is "very (very, very) fussy about every small detail." On the production side, I imagine that can be demanding. On the consumer end, you end up with products like this jacket. Construction is fastidious, and you'd be hard-pressed to find a wandering stitch line or loose thread anywhere.
Comparing this jacket against my Schott Perfecto is perhaps more telling. With my Schott Hand Oiled Perfecto, I actually have a hard time imagining superior materials. Honestly, I'd probably take the oiled naked cowhide against almost anything I can think of, and I have zero complaints about the construction as well. But this Real McCoy's jacket is just a tick better for finishing. Allowances are a touch more precise. Stitch density is approximately 50% higher. It's just that little bit better everywhere in that sense.
New Real McCoy's Buco jackets fit a size small, but Old Real McCoy's jackets fit closer to Western convention (i.e. a 38 Buco is closer to a 36 Harley). I must have measured 20-30 times comparing the measurements on the listing to my own jackets to convince myself it would work. Still, if you have any experience with Japanese sizing before, I don't have to tell you I was half expecting a jacket to show up on my doorstep sized for a small child.
My Schott Hand Oiled Perfecto is a size S, translated roughly to a 36 on most of their models according to the site. RM x HD's jacket fits a little tighter through the chest and shoulders and a few inches shorter in the body, though I'd argue that my Schott runs slightly long, especially if you have a shorter torso (the 619 model is actually designed with a longer length as it's not meant to ride in). Even wearing jeans with a lower rise like a certified young person, the jacket hits right at the belt line. Still, it's a length you might not be accustomed to. My wife's first sentence upon seeing it was "you bought another leather jacket?!" The second was "...is it cropped?" This might be the biggest point of contention for some, so you'll have to decide if you like this this way or not.
I do have some small issues with the fit, however. On my right shoulder to the neck, it doesn't lay dead flat sometimes, though I doubt you can even tell in any of the fit pictures. There's also a crease on the lower left part of the back that causes it to flare out a little when worn open. Combined with the half belt, this can cause a bit of an hourglass shape and look a bit feminine. I haven't been able to gently press the crease out, but we'll see if I can wear both these minor issues annoyances into submission. Lastly, the sleeve pitch (angle at which the sleeves are attached at the shoulder) drapes cleanly with arms forward - holding handlebars, perhaps - rather than down at the side, a design detail I'm guessing goes back to its riding days. So every time I put this on, I simply hold my arms in front of me all day like a zombie. Gotta keep the lines clean.
Some sizing advice for those interested in doing something similar: look up every single listing you can find - on eBay, Grailed, Yahoo Japan Auctions, or merchant sites in English/Japanese/whatever language, and compare all the measurements to each other. If they're on auction, look up other items those sellers have listed before, searching for clothes or brands that you already know your sizes in. Compare those to the item in question. Japanese merchant sites will sometimes post fit pictures with their staff heights/weights. Read those. Some listings will describe how they measure (front side vs. back, seam-to-seam vs. flat width, etc). Measure your own clothes using those same methods.
And lastly, know that no matter how much you prepare, you should still have a small child on hand to sell your jacket to if things go belly up. It helps if the child is into things like Chromexcel, Goodyear welts, and selvedge jeans.
This child lives in Brooklyn, maybe.
Some moto jackets take well to dressing up. The simpler and "cleaner" the jacket, in general, the easier it is to do so. To me, this jacket is probably too rough and rugged for that.
I know a lot of guys worry about not being able to pull off a leather jacket, a sentiment that I totally get. You want to wear your clothes - you don't want your clothes to wear you. I'd argue, though, that the more cerebral and self-conscious you are about trying to wear one, the more that prophecy tends to fulfill itself. The most successful fits I've seen are worn with the attitude and a look in the eye that says "I don't give a f***." That may sound funny coming from a guy who wrote a long review about the different aspects of fit that weren't exactly right. Still...
Do, or do not. There is no try - also Ariana Grande, I think.
There's a point to be made about building a wardrobe as versatile as possible. But once in a while, a character piece does a lot for a man's wardrobe. Once in a while, things just have to kick ass.
Now let's talk about cost. I remember an article I read on Die, Workwear entitled "A Cruel Cosmic Law" that talks about how the thing you really want is usually just outside your reach. That post was based off of another leather jacket, a Himel Bros. cafe racer, which also retails for around $2000. For most guys, including me, that's not just outside of reach - it might as well be $20,000. But if you're dogged enough and willing to put your chips down on a high-risk, high-reward type of gamble, $2000 can become $400-500, which is what I paid for my RM x HD aviator. It's happened to me multiple times now - or rather, I made it happen by being at the right place at the right time armed with enough knowledge to recognize value. You just have to be patient and do your due diligence.
If Schott is all you know of motorcycle jackets, you could certainly do a lot worse for yourself. They're certainly worthy of all the accolades they've received. But if you're interested in checking some other makers, other biker styles, and/or are coming from Banana Republic jackets as your knowledge base, I've included some companies below worth consideration. For more info on how to buy from Japan and how the proxy process works, here's a guide I wrote.
So, there you have it. My new vintage vintage motorcycle jacket. Take it or leave it. I don't give a f***.
Or, at least, I'm trying not to.
Full disclosure: some hardcore clothing nerdery is about to happen, so if you're looking for a short piece about getting the look at Zara, this is the exact wrong place to be.
Background - The Real McCoy's
 |
| The Real McCoy's Tokyo (picture from Better Living Index) |
Japanese company The Real McCoy's is considered by many to be the foremost Americana reproduction company in the world. Of their many products, they're probably most well-known for their A-2 flight jackets and Buco line of motorcycle jackets, which currently retail at around $2000 USD (!). What most people don't know is that The Real McCoy's worked with Harley-Davidson in the 1990s producing a line of jackets based on archival HD designs. This was prior to a shakeup in ownership at Real McCoy's in 2001-2002 and the subsequent splintering of the original company, commonly referred to in Japan as the "Old" Real McCoy's, into several separate companies including Toys McCoy, Real McCoy's New Zealand/The Few, Rainbow Country, and The Real McCoy's of today. It's hard to follow exactly what happened to the Old Real McCoy's, but there seems to be some combination of fraud involved and/or the squandering of vast amounts of money (including rumors that the owner had bought himself a B-17 bomber). What's clear is that the old company went bankrupt, prompting a takeover by Japan's NYLON company and reestablishing itself as the present or "New" Real McCoy's. I've read several comments from longtime customers who preferred the quality and vision of the Old Real McCoy's to the new, but both are highly regarded.
Vintage 1960s HD jacket
 |
| Vintage 1960s HD jacket |
 |
| RM first era reproduction (circa early 1990s) - white label |
 |
| Vintage HD Cycle Champ 1950s |
 |
| RM second era reproduction (circa late 1990s) - black label |
There were also two periods of RM x HD jacket production during the 1990s, as pictured above. The first focused on the more colorful jackets of the 1960-70s and used a rectangular white label. The second utilized a black label and referenced older models like the Cycle Champ, HD's most famous motorcycle jacket, and others which may not have been historically part of the Harley archives. Rin Tanaka actually wrote an entire book on Harley-Davidson clothing entitled "Harley-Davidson Book of Fashions," which covers HD attire from 1910-1950, but I just couldn't justify buying a copy solely to satisfy this one curiosity (yet). In any regard, we know that Real McCoy's produced their own take on Buco's legendary J-24 D-pocket model and this Trojan style under the Harley moniker likely during the latter parts of the 1990s, which dates this jacket back approximately 20 years.
 |
| Told you this would get nerdy |
What exactly do you call a vintage reproduction of a vintage jacket? A vintage vintage jacket?
...vintage inception?
...vintage inception?
Design
As the Type III "Trucker" rules the world of denim jackets, the Schott Perfecto stands apart as the classic archetype of the motorcycle jacket universe. But there's an entire century of design to explore if you care to take a step outside the box. In the period preceding what is now called the "Golden Age" of motorcycle jackets in the 1945-1950s (basically what we consider classic motorcycle jacket designs to be) was the "Sport Jacket Era" of 1930-1945, where jackets shared a similar double rider silhouette as those that would follow, but still borrowed heavily from jackets originally meant for pilots. These jackets are categorized today as "aviators." My RM x HD jacket features a particular D-pocket design originally attributed to Trojan, but otherwise parallels many aviator jackets of the 1930s, as you can see below. Garments of this period are differentiated from their Golden Age descendants by some common trends (as summarized from Rin Tanaka's Motorcycle Jackets: A Century of Leather Design):
- "W" collar, usually non-buttoning
- Bi-swing back design and/or center back pleat (not present after WWII)
- Buttoned, zipperless cuffs
- No shoulder epaulets
- Side D-ring adjusters or, less commonly, lace-up sides (no belt loops)
 |
| Simmons Bilt 1930s Aviator |
 |
| Block Bilt 1930s Aviator (pictures from Rin Tanaka's book) |
Evolution is the key concept here. Sport Jacket Era and Golden Age designs aren't all that different from each other, and it's not hard to imagine that details ebbed and flowed over the years to gradually solidify into patterns that would define their respective eras.
 |
| D-pocket detail |
The D-pocket is a special feature found on many motorcycle jackets. There's been some debate about the origins of the design, one theory a rather romantic notion that it was used to hold a pistol, and in the overlying pocket an extra clip. However, most authorities seem to agree that it was more likely borrowed from its aviation roots as a map pocket or something to stash your gloves and small accessories in. Regardless of its original utility, the D-pocket was here to stay and eventually became associated with biker jackets primarily.
 |
| D-ring side adjusters |
This jacket incorporates a hidden snap-down "W" collar with a slightly wider profile, buttoning cuffs, single front slash pocket, D-ring side adjusters, and my other favorite part of the jacket - a gorgeous showcase half belt-back and inverted center pleat. Looking through thousands of motorcycle jackets online, they can all start to blend together, but the back of this jacket was the first thing that stopped me in my tracks - a little art deco aesthetic on a beautiful leather canvas.
 |
| Inverted center pleat detail |
Under the arms you'll also find a small panel for movement with ventilated eyelets, similar in practice to the "underarm footballs" found on most Perfecto models. The inside of the jacket is fully lined in a light plaid wool typical of the era and the sleeves are lined in black nylon. The patterned brass Conmar main zipper with leather pull and brass Talon D-pocket zipper with its diamond chain pull are also fantastic in detail and fit the vintage aesthetic nicely.
 |
| Conmar main zipper, Talon diamond zipper |
Materials
 |
| Diagram from Horween |
Talking about materials means talking about the heart and soul of a motorcycle jacket - the leather. Horsehide was one of the most popular leathers used in the early-mid 1900s due to its widespread availability and some intrinsic qualities which make it ideal for riding wear. To paraphrase a Horween article and some other sources comparing horse to steerhide/cowhide, and calfskin, horsehide is generally more abrasion and water resistant and is also thinner/lighter with a smoother hand. Horsehide also has a reputation for initially being very stiff, notorious for often requiring a substantial break in period that can span years. You might notice I didn't mention lambskin - reason being that lambskin is exceptionally soft and supple but also exceptionally fragile compared to the other hides above. That's not to say it's worse, it's just different, being more of a luxury feel product rather than a practical one in regard to durability.
Front quarter horsehide (FQHH aka horsefront) is particularly suitable for motorcycle jackets. New Real McCoy's Buco jackets are now made with horsehide sourced from Japan's tannery Shinki-Hikaku, which might be aptly described as the "Horween of the East." Shinki front quarter horsehide is a semi-aniline vegetable tanned full grain leather - semi-aniline describing leather finished with a protective surface coat, which gives it a slight shine. I usually prefer full aniline leather for aesthetic reasons (which counter intuitively is left "naked" on the surface), but both can be attractive depending on what you're looking for.
The Old Real McCoy's jackets were made in New Zealand by Real McCoy's NZ aka The Few, including this model, and exported to Japan for sale, so I can't say for sure where the leather was sourced, though my best guess would be Italy (maybe Badalassi tannery) based on some of the other jackets put out by the Few in later years. What I can say is that it's gorgeous and in remarkable condition, with a tight and uniform grain and a smooth hand. It creaks when flexed like an old wood floor in an oddly satisfying way. Some horsehide can feel like dry cardboard or plasticky, but that isn't the case here. It's much softer than I expected. That's not to say it's as soft as lambskin. You won't read the words "buttery" to describe any horsehide in the world, but it's not supposed to be.
Different leatherworkers employ a range of weights for their leather stock. Lost Worlds, for example, is famous for using ultra heavy horsehide. That's neither inherently good or bad. Again, it all depends on what you're looking for. This Real McCoy's hide is more of a medium weight, suiting it well for three season wear while still feeling substantial.
The surface of the leather is over-dyed black over a brown core, commonly known as "tea core." As a jacket made from tea core leather ages, the black slowly wears away to expose the lighter brown underneath (as you can see demonstrated in the jacket below). For vintage jackets this process can take decades. In some modern reproductions it's accelerated purposefully as a shortcut to a quick patina (such as the Liberty Horsehide used by Bill Kelso). But over the ~20 years of my "new" jacket's life it has either been worn very rarely and lightly or finished in a more robust manner, as there's almost no tea core exposed and very little creasing on the sleeves and body. If you look very closely, though, you can see hints of brown peeking through on the sleeve cuffs and the back of the collar - sites that naturally experience the most friction.
 |
| Shinki tea core horsehide Buco made by Diamond Dave - 1 year of wear |
Construction
I know a skilled leatherworker in England who's making some products for a retailer in Japan. To quote him, the Japanese market is "very (very, very) fussy about every small detail." On the production side, I imagine that can be demanding. On the consumer end, you end up with products like this jacket. Construction is fastidious, and you'd be hard-pressed to find a wandering stitch line or loose thread anywhere.
Comparing this jacket against my Schott Perfecto is perhaps more telling. With my Schott Hand Oiled Perfecto, I actually have a hard time imagining superior materials. Honestly, I'd probably take the oiled naked cowhide against almost anything I can think of, and I have zero complaints about the construction as well. But this Real McCoy's jacket is just a tick better for finishing. Allowances are a touch more precise. Stitch density is approximately 50% higher. It's just that little bit better everywhere in that sense.
 |
| Stitching comparison (Schott Perfecto in Brown) |
Fit and Sizing
I'm 5'11" and 143 lbs (lost a little weight since my last review trying to stave off the dad bod). I wear a small top in most US brands, or a 36-38R for suiting with a true 37" chest.New Real McCoy's Buco jackets fit a size small, but Old Real McCoy's jackets fit closer to Western convention (i.e. a 38 Buco is closer to a 36 Harley). I must have measured 20-30 times comparing the measurements on the listing to my own jackets to convince myself it would work. Still, if you have any experience with Japanese sizing before, I don't have to tell you I was half expecting a jacket to show up on my doorstep sized for a small child.
My Schott Hand Oiled Perfecto is a size S, translated roughly to a 36 on most of their models according to the site. RM x HD's jacket fits a little tighter through the chest and shoulders and a few inches shorter in the body, though I'd argue that my Schott runs slightly long, especially if you have a shorter torso (the 619 model is actually designed with a longer length as it's not meant to ride in). Even wearing jeans with a lower rise like a certified young person, the jacket hits right at the belt line. Still, it's a length you might not be accustomed to. My wife's first sentence upon seeing it was "you bought another leather jacket?!" The second was "...is it cropped?" This might be the biggest point of contention for some, so you'll have to decide if you like this this way or not.
I do have some small issues with the fit, however. On my right shoulder to the neck, it doesn't lay dead flat sometimes, though I doubt you can even tell in any of the fit pictures. There's also a crease on the lower left part of the back that causes it to flare out a little when worn open. Combined with the half belt, this can cause a bit of an hourglass shape and look a bit feminine. I haven't been able to gently press the crease out, but we'll see if I can wear both these minor issues annoyances into submission. Lastly, the sleeve pitch (angle at which the sleeves are attached at the shoulder) drapes cleanly with arms forward - holding handlebars, perhaps - rather than down at the side, a design detail I'm guessing goes back to its riding days. So every time I put this on, I simply hold my arms in front of me all day like a zombie. Gotta keep the lines clean.
Some sizing advice for those interested in doing something similar: look up every single listing you can find - on eBay, Grailed, Yahoo Japan Auctions, or merchant sites in English/Japanese/whatever language, and compare all the measurements to each other. If they're on auction, look up other items those sellers have listed before, searching for clothes or brands that you already know your sizes in. Compare those to the item in question. Japanese merchant sites will sometimes post fit pictures with their staff heights/weights. Read those. Some listings will describe how they measure (front side vs. back, seam-to-seam vs. flat width, etc). Measure your own clothes using those same methods.
This child lives in Brooklyn, maybe.
Styling
"K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Stupid. Great advice. Hurts my feelings every time."
- Dwight Schrute
Motorcycle jackets, jeans or chinos, boots. A tee shirt, henley, or something simple up top. Tale as old as time, song as old as rhyme - Ariana Grande said that. The jacket's also pretty slim, so I try and match the silhouette from top to bottom.
Some moto jackets take well to dressing up. The simpler and "cleaner" the jacket, in general, the easier it is to do so. To me, this jacket is probably too rough and rugged for that.
I know a lot of guys worry about not being able to pull off a leather jacket, a sentiment that I totally get. You want to wear your clothes - you don't want your clothes to wear you. I'd argue, though, that the more cerebral and self-conscious you are about trying to wear one, the more that prophecy tends to fulfill itself. The most successful fits I've seen are worn with the attitude and a look in the eye that says "I don't give a f***." That may sound funny coming from a guy who wrote a long review about the different aspects of fit that weren't exactly right. Still...
Do, or do not. There is no try - also Ariana Grande, I think.
Summary and Recommendations
"...the motorcycle jacket is an international uniform impervious to obsolescence. It is a garb for all tribes: goths in Kenya; rockabillies in Japan; you in your youth, wherever you wasted it." - Troy Patterson, NY Times 2015
There's a point to be made about building a wardrobe as versatile as possible. But once in a while, a character piece does a lot for a man's wardrobe. Once in a while, things just have to kick ass.
Now let's talk about cost. I remember an article I read on Die, Workwear entitled "A Cruel Cosmic Law" that talks about how the thing you really want is usually just outside your reach. That post was based off of another leather jacket, a Himel Bros. cafe racer, which also retails for around $2000. For most guys, including me, that's not just outside of reach - it might as well be $20,000. But if you're dogged enough and willing to put your chips down on a high-risk, high-reward type of gamble, $2000 can become $400-500, which is what I paid for my RM x HD aviator. It's happened to me multiple times now - or rather, I made it happen by being at the right place at the right time armed with enough knowledge to recognize value. You just have to be patient and do your due diligence.
So, there you have it. My new vintage vintage motorcycle jacket. Take it or leave it. I don't give a f***.
Or, at least, I'm trying not to.
Modern Manufacturers
Belstaff
Branded
Lewis Leathers
Himel Bros.
Blackmeans
Bill Kelso
Block Bilt
Good Wear
Levi's Vintage Clothing
Branded
Lewis Leathers
Himel Bros.
Blackmeans
Bill Kelso
Block Bilt
Good Wear
Levi's Vintage Clothing
Vintage
Schott NYC
Harley-Davidson
Brooks
Brooks
Beck/Flying Togs
Cal Leather
Indian Motorcycle Company
Simmons Bilt
Block Bilt
Cal Leather
Indian Motorcycle Company
Simmons Bilt
Block Bilt
Leathertogs
Buco
Langlitz
Trojan
Montgomery Ward
Hercules/Oakbrook/Allstate (Sears)
J.C. Penney
J.C. Penney
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