The New Standard - Beckett Simonon Gallagher Boots - First Impressions

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Until relatively recently, the world of quality "entry-level footwear," approximately the $150-350 range, was relatively shallow compared to what it is now. You could buy a lot of footwear that was really cheap and horrible (and you still can), you could take a big jump up in price to start dealing with the heavy hitters, or you could buy Allen Edmonds. There just weren't that many other dependable companies offering quality shoes and boots at an approachable price for most men. You'll actually be seeing a fair bit of comparison to Allen Edmonds here, which served as the standard bearer for entry-level value to this point. Enter Beckett Simonon, who set their sights firmly on this segment of the market.

I'll admit, I heard about Beckett Simonon a long time ago when they were just starting out and promptly disregarded them, as I do most new startups. It wasn't until a few years ago that I began to read more about them on sites I trust, like Put This On and From Squalor to Baller, that made me reconsider. When BS contacted me to see if I wanted to review something, I chose the Gallagher boots in mid-May and had an order placed on their production list. In mid-August they were delivered to my doorstep.

I must say, color me impressed.

Design, Materials and Construction

Quick Specifications:

Leather - Oak calf

Construction - Blake stitched

Lacing - Open

Eyelets - 4 blind, 3 top speed hooks (brass)

Tongue - non gusseted
Lining - Vachetta leather

Midsole - leather and rubber

Outsole - leather, heel rubber cap

Sizing - 8D

With a graceful and refined last (the 3D shape of the 'foot' a shoe is built on), open lacing, and a stitched apron toe, the Gallagher boot design sits nicely at the intersection of tailored and more casual style. The form is approachable, the almond shape of the toe sensible, being neither too pointy nor bulbously round, and the design cues are all classic. As with basically all BS products, the boots tend to veer towards the tried and true mainstream designs of the past. You won't find anything particularly avant garde here, but that's kind of the point.

The leather used for the uppers is full-grain Argentinian calfskin in "oak" finish, a warm mid-brown shade with a bit of burnishing at the toe, though the Gallagher boot - and all of their models, for that matter - are made in a variety of colors. In hand, it's remarkably similar in quality and thickness to some of the calfskin on Allen Edmonds footwear, but perhaps a little softer out of the box. Clicking (how the pattern is cut out of a hide) is good, and the surface is smooth and free of any unsightly grain issues. Reviews of Beckett Simonon, in their early days, had less than stellar things to say about plastic-like leather, but it seems they've come leaps and bounds since. The lining is supple vachetta, and the insoles are made from soft vegetable tanned leather as well.

Beckett Simonon shoes/boots are Blake stitched, not Goodyear welted, with what looks like an additional leather stormwelt added to the Gallagher, presumably for water resistance. During the recent heritage movement in menswear, Goodyear welting was seen as the be-all, end-all of the quality footwear discussion. Like most things, the real answer is that it depends. Blake stitched shoes can be resoled, as can Goodyear welted shoes, but the process is generally considered a little more difficult to get done. They also tend to be less waterproof, as a single stitch travels through the outsole, insole, and upper. But Blake stitching also has its own advantages. The shoes are generally lighter, more comfortable to wear initially, and sleeker, as they don't have the extra layer/welt. For those reasons, some manufacturers prefer Blake construction, and you'll often see the method used in Italian shoes for the reasons listed. I tend to gravitate towards GYW myself, but I like chunky, and the decision really should be individualized and reflective of conscious decision making, based on the goals of that particular design.

My pair is in perfect condition - something I've had problems with on other brands - and particularly the stitching on these boots is notably excellent - clean with confident lines and surprisingly dense, even compared to the higher priced Allen Edmonds. I should note that I do much prefer a leather heel pull tab to the nylon ones used here. I don't know which of the two is the more resilient in the long run, but if I wanted a modern style work boot with synthetics this wouldn't be it in the first place. I also have a pet peeve about casual boots with leather outsoles, especially on a pair of boots with a storm welt design on it. A slim rubber outsole would solve this issue without adding too much bulk to the shape, while being much more wearable in adverse weather. That being said, I'd say these are more personal preferences than black and white negatives. And since switching their business model to one offering all products at all times, there are two models of the Gallagher that include a rubber outsole now.

Also pictured: Allen Edmonds Dalton boot and Allen Edmonds Eagle County MTO

Fit and Styling

I wear an 8D in most Allen Edmonds lasts and 7.5D in Red Wing and Wolverine. I went TTS with the Gallagher at 8, and they fit me well with enough room to wear medium weight socks. They're surprisingly comfortably out of the box, and with a full month of intermittent wear now, they're still very easy on the feet - especially compared to some of the stiffer workwear/GYW boots out there.

For styling, the Gallagher boot is right at home with any type of casual Americana or slightly tailored attire - think old Barbour ads, or anything that we've been wearing the past ten years before the ironic huge ugly sneaker became a thing. I really enjoy wearing them with a pair of Levi's Vintage Clothing 505 jeans and an oxford shirt, or a pair of heavier chinos and a cozy sweater. This style of boot also wouldn't feel out of place dressed up a little with a casual sport coat, which is not something I'd say about more workwear-specific boots like Red Wings.

Summary and Conclusions

It seems every day out there, there's a new company that claims to have the best product, handmade by the most skilled master craftspeople in the world, and at the lowest possible price "because we cut out the middle man." At this point, I'd consider paying the middle man to stop listening to the unending barrage of companies telling me they cut out the f***ing middle man. But against odds, Beckett Simonon seems to be the real deal. Solid product, no obvious cost-cutting in the end result, prompt customer service (they actually send regular updates during the construction process), and an extremely competitive price.

Honestly, I keep forgetting these are $220 boots. They easily punch above their weight. Sure, you can get AEs on deep sale at certain times of the year, but having owned a fair share, I think BS's quality control is probably better based on what I've heard and experienced myself, albeit to a limited degree. AE itself has been a bit of a question mark in since being bought out a few years ago and attempting to rebrand somewhat for a younger market (these boots just...make me so sad). You could also go Meermin, but they have a smaller footprint in the USA, I've heard customer service may not be as comprehensive, and there's less risk in purchasing BS. And for the money invested, you'd have to spend a whole lot more to get arguably diminishing returns jumping up to something like Alden. That is a price many would be willing to pay, but for those that aren't, it's hard to imagine you could do much better than Beckett Simonon.

So those are the great things, but what are potential downsides? Well, for one, they only come in standard sizes, so if you have wide or narrow feet, it's not an ideal situation. There's also a not-insignificant production time, so you have to be willing to wait a couple months to get something you ordered today. And lastly, if you really don't like Blake construction, then there's just nothing for you here. This boot is moderately dressy, but a stormwelt on a Blake stitched shoe sends mixed messages to me. And if I were buying a purer workboot or army boot style, I might insist on a GYW. Put This On's review in 2017 mentioned that Goodyear welted models might be coming soon alongside some heavier workwear offerings, but we're at the tail end of 2019 now, so.

All in all, though, I'd say Beckett Simonon has moved themselves into a position as perhaps the strongest value in the entry level market. For those just getting into quality footwear without wanting to invest upwards of $400, those looking for a great value, or those just looking for a great pair of shoes or boots, period, Beckett Simonon deserves a serious look.

BECKETT SIMONON

Pros

Excellent materials and construction, especially for the price point
Excellent quality control

Prompt communication and frequent updates

Compares well with other makers at the same (or slightly higher) price bracket
No-risk return policy

Cons

Nylon pull tabs (for me)
Production lead time
Only standard sizing (no wide/narrow options)

Would prefer Goodyear welted construction on this model

No ability to see in person or try on prior to purchase