Tuesday, August 25, 2015

In Review: Naked and Famous Indigo Slub Stretch Selvedge Skinny Guy





 

General


I have to say, getting "casually interested" in denim is a bit like getting casually interested in crack. I'm sure I could quit if I wanted to.  I just don't have a problem.  After my first pair of Naked and Famous, I got a chance to pick up a nice pair of Skinny Guys in raw indigo slub stretch selvedge denim during a Barneyswarehouse sale.  An extra 20% off their sale price brought them to $55.20 with free shipping, and they arrived a few days ago.

Let's take a look.

Construction



Naked and Famous is known for its interesting raw fabrics, and the Japanese 12 oz. indigo dyed slub on this pair is beautiful.  "Slub" refers to the irregular thickness of the yarn, resulting in a bit more texture and visual interest.  It's also a touch more rough in the hand than the charcoal pair I got a little while back.  The fabric is composed of 98% cotton/2% elastane.  I'm not really a big fan of stretch denim in general, to be honest, but thankfully the fabric has just a hint of stretch to it.






As noted in my previous selvedge shootout review, as crazy as some of N&F's fabrics are, the detailing and hardware are much more understated.  The jeans are constructed in Canada (as are all Naked and Famous jeans) with a button fly and standard N&F rivets.  Similar to the charcoal selvedge denim, the selvedge ID is white and red, but this one has a touch of turquoise one one side as well.  The color doesn't jump out and punch you crotch demanding to be noticed.  You only see it if you're looking really closely - a detail choice that I like, given that selvedge lines can be conspicuous on their own.

As usual, the branded Naked and Famous leather patch adorns the back, this time in dark brown leather.  I've said before and I'll say it again, I hate the naked lady patch and this one is no different.  But it's easy enough to wear a belt over it instead of under, and the nipples aren't shiny, so that's good.

The contrast stitching is done in a subdued shade dark orange or burnt umber, if you recall your Bob Ross lessons.  Stitching quality is standard, I'd say, comparable to other jeans in the range with regard to stitch density and cleanliness.  The hems are chainstitched, as are various points on the inside of the garment (chain stitching is an old sewing technique associated especially with jeans that involves a single thread which loops back on itself, pulling the fabric slightly and creating the familiar roping/rippling effect).  Overall, good stuff, if not expected.

Sizing and Fit

Front View



Naked and Famous measurements vary wildly depending on the fit.  For instance, for the same tagged 32" waist, a Weird Guy fit will measure 34", the Skinny Guy 33", and Stacked Guy 35."  That's a huge difference, and we're only talking about one measurement out of six that are listed in the size charts.  That's why it's so incredibly important to measure yourself and look at size charts for products when they're available if you can't find them in person.  Case in point - For some reason I thought the Stacked Guy had the same waist measurements as the Skinny Guy and didn't bother to look again before ordering a pair final sale with a waist that ended up being too big.  Ugh.  Check and double check.

As skinny as skinny jeans are these days, the N&F Skinny Guy fit is actually more of what most jeans makers would call a slim straight.  It can be a little confusing for someone who hasn't looked into it before, especially since they also make Slim Guy, which is really a relaxed fit.  So, as a slim straight the Skinny Guys fit well.  If you're looking for a skinnier fit, the Super Skinny Guy offers a similar top block with a shorter inseam and tapered knee to a smaller leg opening.  The Stacked Guy is a true skinny fit and has a high rise meant to be worn low on the waist.

My true waist size is 33", and I'm 6' tall.  For those who have read the review on the charcoal selvedge Skinny Guys I have, the indigo slub fit unsurprisingly about the same, save for the stretch.  The top block is fitted (especially compared to the Weird Guy), with a low rise and straight leg from the knee down. The inseam on Skinny Guys is 37", the longest standard inseam I've come across.  I can't figure out why that is, as they're not even close to narrow enough to be able to stack - at least not on my stick legs.  But guys with thicker legs who could do it would probably have larger butts and thighs as well, likely more suitable for the Weird Guy fit.  Nevertheless, with some standard cuffing these Skinny Guys wear well in a true slim (not skinny), straight leg fashion.






Also pictured - Club Monaco marled henley, Wolverine Centennial 1000 Mile boots, Orion show harness belt


 Impressions and Value






With jeans, a lot of what you're paying for is in the fabric (aside from the fit, of course), and Naked and Famous are justifiably renowned for this.  N&F typically start at around $140 MSRP, but you can frequently find them for half that or less if you're willing to wait for the right time.  Personally, I like N&F in the <$70 range.  If you can get your hands on some at this price, it opens up a whole world of denim that otherwise does not exist from mainstream clothing retailers. 

Things I Liked


Great indigo slub fabric
Consistent fit
Wide availability

Things I Didn't Like


Stretch fabric
Inseam made for NBA players

Others to Consider in the Range


Levi's Made and Crafted
APC
Neuw Denim (though I don't like most of their washes)
Nudie (same)
Gustin (big lead time, up front payments)

Where to Buy


Barneys Warehouse - wait for an extra discount event, final sale
Gilt Groupe - poor shipping costs and return policy (ok exchange policy), but occasionally the best prices available if you know your sizes and fits
MyHabit - Not final sale, standard shipping prices, but historically less sizes and items based on my prior experience
Amazon - occasionally will drop to the $70's, though a bit more uncommon


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