Thank God for Sweater Weather

Atelier & Repairs - Unionmade Goods

In a large multi-center randomized control trial which looked at erectile dysfunction therapies among menswear enthusiasts, researchers found that there was no statistical difference between successful treatment using large doses of Viagra versus the physiologic response elicited from the uttering of a single word: "Layering." 

These days, you'll find a common thread across menswear sites - an almost palpable excitement and unmistakable optimistism as talk turns to sweaters and outerwear again, linen to flannel and heavy wool.

I've said it before, but it bears repeating: I hate the summer - maybe less than I used to, thanks to some better options in recent years, but there's just no comparison to sweater weather. In anticipation of sartorial life opening up again, here are some of the things I'm looking forward to or coveting this fall.

Barbour x Engineered Garments FW18

Barbour x EG at Bureau Belfast

We saw this line previewed earlier in the year, but the much anticipated Barbour x Engineered Garments collaboration is here now and it's impressive, combining many of the strengths of both companies into a fresh collection this fall. I'm especially fond of the waxed zip parka, and for the first time in modern times I can see the merits of wearing a cape without being Batman. Fair warning, the collection is pricey, but available at retailers such as End Clothing and Bureau Belfast if you can afford to splurge.

 

Atelier & Repairs

If you read this blog, you likely have some appreciation of Japanese boro patchwork and repair. LA shop Atelier & Repairs is quickly making waves in the US for its work in similar pursuits. Their philosophy emphasizes taking clothing that already exists and upcycling garments rather than contribute to the global problem of overproduction - something that's being talked about more and more in the clothing industry.

Even if you don't particularly care about the mission statement, the clothes are good, if not a bit eccentric at times. My favorite pieces are some of the more subdued Supersacco factory jackets carried at Unionmade and Blue in Green Soho and the personal work jacket worn by Maurizio Donadi, A&R's founder, in many recent pics. Atelier & Repairs also does collaborative projects with other brands, including a recent jeans project with Antonio Ciongoli and 18 East on their first drop.

Maurizio Donadi/Atelier & Repairs

18 East Mfg

I just wrote a whole post about 18 East Mfg so I won't belabor the point, but the first collection is out now on the website - as in released and mostly sold out now. If you missed the initial drop online like I did (there was a technical issue where the early access didn't go out as planned), there are still two physical stores getting their own full size runs in the near future. Unionmade is up next this Friday, and will be available on their website the day after their local launch party. There's some good feedback starting to trickle back on Styleforum, though nailing down sizing remains a little murky (bottoms seem TTS, tops are a mix of sizing down and TTS, it seems).

Perhaps the craziest thing is that subsequent drops are reported to be dropping somewhere in the realm of every two months. If that is the case, that's three times the amount of releases seen on a traditional SS/AW schedule. That's bananas.

Japanese Brands

East Harbour Surplus - Unionmade Goods

There's a lot of good stuff out there this fall from several brands. East Harbour Surplus continues to get more compelling every season, and their outerwear lately has been out of this world. Likewise, Naissance and Kaptain Sunshine have been showing off some great pieces lately, and if you don't know Sage de Cret yet, you should.

Naissance FW 18

Sage de Cret - Unionmade

Kaptain Sunshine FW18

Kapital just decided to drop this teaser on us last month (though no one knows if it'll eventually turn up in the online shop). And ever since the temperatures started to dip a little bit, I've been dying to get out my own denim ring coat (and I'm looking for a warmer version in wool this winter).

Kapital Kountry 2018

Chore Coats

Bryceland's Chore Coat

If all this strikes you as being a bit expensive, you're not wrong. The 18 East Mfg releases are the only things I can afford myself, at the moment. It's a common saying that knits and outerwear are where you should invest your wardrobe dollars, but sometimes you don't have to. For some good old down to earth workwear, look no further than the chore coat.

My top pick this year is the Tellason Coverall Jacket. Sometimes you need a cure for the common trucker jacket, and the Tellason Coverall hits all the right spots. It's designed in more of a rugged chore coat style than your everyday Type III denim jacket, comes from a well-respected denim specialist in Tellason, and best of all starts at $149 using 14 oz Cone Mills denim. For reference, a Gap Kaihara jacket lists for $138. Don't get me wrong - I'm actually impressed with the Gap piece, but they're not really on the same level, and yet the price isn't all that different. If you need further evidence of that, check out this review from Ethan Wong's excellent Street x Sprezza. I am going to own one of these before the end of the season. You can also find plenty of vintage options around on eBay and Etsy that don't break the bank.

Tellason Selvedge Coverall - New and 4 Years (Heddels)

For similar, but pricier options, Bryceland's in HK/Tokyo and Mister Freedom from LA both make their own jaw-dropping chore/workwear jackets. And while you're at it, anything from those two stores is as good as they come.

Mister Freedom

So those are just a couple of things I've had my eye on for this fall - the most attainable being 18 East and the chore coats, but we're just beginning to scratch the surface.

The other day it was grey, gloomy and steadily raining - but it was cool out for the first time in recent memory here in Philadelphia. I must have looked the full-on idiot, with a huge smile on my face as I picked up my first jacket of the season and walked out the door with a bounce in my step and a song in my heart, as if my soul had burst forth from the depths where it had cowered from the heat and now declared to the world:

Indeed.