Things I'm Excited About This Fall

 

In the last year, I've taken a large step back purchasing clothing and engaging in "the hunt" to the level I was previously accustomed to. A global pandemic and a new child have a tendency to blow up your priorities and really, I just don't need much these days. But when the weather starts cooling down, it's hard not to get excited about clothes. I thought I'd take the opportunity to talk about some things I'm looking forward to.

Uniqlo U

 
Remember when J. Crew was aspirational? When they stocked brands in store like Chimala and when Wallace and Barnes was inspired? Remember GAP x GQ's Best New Menswear Designers collections? Or when Brooks Brothers' aesthetic was Brooks Brothers' aesthetic? Remember when Aaron Levine helmed Club Monaco, and when he made us actually walk into Abercrombie & Fitch stores again for the first time since we were in high school? Truth be told, I'll still check in with new seasons here and there, but for the most part I don't even bother going in these stores anymore. I'm not saying I'm better than them, more so that they just used to have more character.


Then there's Uniqlo x Lemaire, which has since become house brand Uniqlo U. For a higher-level aesthetic, quality basics, and an alternative to the slim flat-front pant/slim shirt uniform adopted by everyone else on the block, Uniqlo U continues to knock it out of the park. In particular, I love the wide-leg pants and jeans, the tees are a staple of mine (I've been sizing up lately to pair with things like vintage fatigue pants and chore coats) and the line, in general, feels higher quality than main label. One could criticize the pieces for seeming a bit plain, but the thing that makes it unique is that no one else is doing these types of silhouettes except smaller boutique designers and high-end brands at much more expensive prices. Rises are higher, inseams dare to be shorter, shoulders drop. For me, there's nothing at it's value level and availability in the same conversation except maybe Uniqlo x Engineered Garments, of which we haven't heard anything yet for 2021. The fall 2021 collection drops end of September, and I've definitely got my eye on a few things. The best part is that most guys really aren't used to or looking for these types of fits, so you can often snap things up at end of season for next to nothing. Uniqlo U is affordable, it's around most people, and it's interesting. What more could you want out of a line?
 
Uniqlo U regular fit corduroy pants (left), wide fit corduroy pants (right - higher rise, wide wales, cropped length), noragi - Naked & Famous, shoes Yuketen
 
Uniqlo U tee, Uniqlo wide jeans, vintage noragi

A Little Tailored Wear and Tasseled Loafers

Ian Anderson's famous shell Alden tassel loafers

Like 99% of the world, I haven't worn much tailored clothing recent years. Reflecting on it, though, if I were to make a list of my biggest style inspirations, one near-universal constant is that they are all uncommonly successful mixing tailored and casual attire. Look at guys like Ethan Newton and Kenji Cheung of Brycelands, Alessandro Squarzi of Fortela, Ethan Wong of wherever the Boba tea is in LA, Greg Lellouche of No Man Walks Alone and Gerry Nelson/Gezzaseyes from the Land Down Unda, to name a few. It makes me question why I don't do more of that in my own life. 
 
Tomoyoshi Takada
Kenji Cheung


These past few months, I've been really interested in finding a good pair of tassel loafers to add a new wrinkle into the ol' wardrobe. Inevitably, that search for the perfect balance of casual/dress seems to lead down a road straight to Alden (and Grant Stone) - something in black or color 8 shell, maybe a brown suede to pair with old faded jeans. I'm still working on it, but if you're in interested in the same, here are a few posts at From Squalor to Baller and Put This On with some helpful guidance.
 


A Little Yeehaw

Ethan Newton


  

Urban Composition w/ the RRL

I've also been really interested in the Western moment Derek Guy recently wrote about in A Story About Ranch Dressing. Rather than go full-on leather chaps and lasso, I like to work Western-inspired elements into an outfit I would already wear - that is to say, I use them as a way to put a little spice and flavor into an ensemble, rather than put together a "Western" look. The thought process is identical to incorporating other genres like workwear or vintage menswear into your attire. For me, that means mixing in things like RRL cardigans I can't afford and don't actually own, Western denim shirts, or this vintage Western silver and alligator belt I bought earlier this year.

Vintage Western belt, Uniqlo U wide pleated pants, Uniqlo x EG Polo

Uniqlo U Regular Fit corduroy pants, Wallace and Barnes herringbone shirt
Western shirt - The Flat Head, Jeans - LVC, Belt - Narragansett

Outerwear and Leather F-ing Jackets

Fine Creek Leathers Roberts leather jacket, Western shirt - Polo, Jeans - Rag & Bone

The first time weather permits me to wear a leather jacket each fall is one of the happiest days of the year. I guess you could say any jacket in general, but there's something about a leather jacket specifically that feels so good, so badass, so hell yes in a way a Harrington or hoodie could never achieve.



From a leather jacket perspective, I think the ideal collection is a double rider, a cafe racer or turn-down collar single breasted model, a shearling jacket for colder weather, and something in suede. I sold my Schott brown naked Perfecto earlier this year (it was a little too long and a little heavy on the biker details for my current tastes) so I've always got my eye out for a replacement.
 
Mostly, I just want to wear the things I already have. I see them hanging all the time in my closet, just staring me at me like:

 
I also still get a mountain of enjoyment out of my favorite pieces of non-leather outerwear as well. Though I've had some misses in the past, my Beams Plus coats, sashiko jackets, ring coats, vintage militaria and denim jackets have become so much a part of my core style that I still get a thrill every time I put one on, some of them going on years now. And that's really the goal of building a wardrobe, at least in my mind.

Coat - Beams Plus, Shirt - Theory, Pants - Hiroshi Kato, Boots - Allen Edmonds

Dressing with my Son

 
Before my son Grey was born last year, a few people told me "your kid is gonna be so well dressed!" Well, they were dead wrong - at least to this point. Infants, I have come to learn, are more or less constantly wet, pooping/peeing blobs, and they also grow out of clothes at a crazy rate, so free hand-me-downs and quick on/off onesies become a lot more important when you're changing fifteen diapers in a day - at least to me. I pretty much just gave up on the idea of buying the baby clothes I really liked early on in favor of survival and efficiency. I do have to admit, though, I've certainly been envious when I come across pics like this of John Jarrett and his baby.
 

Now that my son is about 1 1/2 years old, he is much less blobby and a lot more person-like. It's pretty cool. He can go for several hours without a diaper change, so separates are more reasonable, and once kids are a certain age, brands start making clothes that look more like adult clothes. What I'm trying to say is that I think he's getting to be at a point where I think we can put some fits together. Of all the things I've talked about today, this one gets me the most excited. I have to admit that buying kids' clothes is well out of my comfort zone, though, so I'll take any recommendations if you have any that are relatively affordable.

My little blob

I've included some pics below I really enjoy of fathers and their kids I've come across on IG in the public space, so if I've used your picture and you'd prefer to not have it posted, please let me know and I'd be happy to take it down.
 
Hope everyone is having a happy and healthy 2021.

Maybe my favorite picture of Ian Anderson

Kyle Toman

Xavier Dufour

Alessandro Squarzi

Eddie Zee

Jake Grantham from Anglo Italian

Tomoyoshi Takada


Jeremy Kirkland

Brian Davis of Wooden Sleepers


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